Author: Dirk Chan
Our specials this week are:
1) Neil Ellis Cinsault Short Left (Stellenbosch, South Africa) – $17.99 (GST Holiday), regularly $22.99.
2) Domaine Raymond Usseglio & Fils Parte des Anges (Chateauneuf-du-Pape, France) – $64.99 (GST Holiday), regularly $124.99
In 1984 Neil Ellis sourced grapes from vineyards not of his own and produced wine in rented cellar space. These grapes were sourced in the Stellenbosch district and meant a lot of nosing around the restrictive quota system prevalent at the time.
Neil Ellis is one of the doyens of the South African wine industry. He started as a pioneering négociant in the early 1980’s, seeking out parcels of interesting vines to make exceptional wines under his own name, to nowadays being a well-established family enterprise with a local and international reputation for exceptional elegance and quality producing some 40k cases annually. Today the journey of Neil Ellis Wines is not only about Neil Ellis. He has over 40 years of winemaking experience having started at renowned wineries Groot Constantia and KVW.
We are featuring his Cinsault Short Left this week – Cinsault is usually a blend in a Southern Rhone red adding earthiness and soil character. Cinsault offers a lighter, fresher style of red bursting with vibrant berry flavors. Soft, powdery tannins add to the wine’s appeal, balancing the savory-ness and leading to a finish marked by lingering spice and unexpected complexity.
Domaine Raymond Usseglio & Fils was started in 1963, although the vineyards date back to 1931. The estate has 15 hectares and today, it is ran by Raymond’s son Stephane who advocates freedom of expression and the quest for the pure expression of their terroir. Each bottle has its own identity, telling a unique story, testifying to their commitment to authenticity and differentiation.
Our high-end feature this week is Stephane’s Chateauneuf-du-Pape Partes des Anges, an unusual Mourvedre dominant red – lashings of new oak adorn this Mourvèdre-dominated blend, adding layers of spicy vanilla to the variety’s signature backdrop of dark, rich, hedgerow fruits. Fresh cherries and blackberries combine with more brooding and savoury notes of leather, meat and spiced prunes. Concentrated, but with enough acidity to ensure balance, this is definitely one for the bold. Great with a slow braised beef stew or grilled goose. Will easily last a decade for those who can wait it out in the cellar for additional complexity.