deVine Thoughts

Author: Dirk Chan

This is a special pre-sell for 2022 Bouchard Pere et Fils Beaune Greves Vigne de l’Enfant Jésus Premier Cru (Beaune, Burgundy, France) – $374.99

Over the course of deVine’s 20 years in business, this 2022 vintage is only the third time we’re offering any of the Bouchard Pere et Fils Beaune Greves Vigne de l’Enfant Jésus Premier Cru (following the 2005 and 2014’s). Nicked name the Baby Jesus, it is a highly sought after red Burgundy – such is the limited availability that we have only six bottles for sale. This Pre-Sell ends on Sunday, Sep 28th at midnight and is pre-selling on a first-come, first-serve basis. Any unsold bottles from the pre-sell will sell for over $400 on arrival in early October.

The Burgundian wine domaine of Bouchard Pére et Fils can trace its origins back to 1731 and the L’Enfant Jesus’ 3.91 hectare plot was acquired via auction in 1791 – its mid-slope location and east and south-east facing location makes it the first parcels to be picked.

One of the legendary wines of the Beaune appellation, the Bouchard Pere et Fils Beaune Greves Vigne de L’Enfant Jésus is a signature wine from this estate. The vineyard is located inside the vast Beaune Greves vineyard – one of the best 1er crus of Beaune – and the Vigne de L’Enfant Jésus plot is located in what is widely considered the best part of Beaune Greves … in the very center of the vineyard. The reputation of this wine – nicked name The Baby Jesus, is if any Premier Cru Burgundy in Beaune were to be upgraded to Grand Cru, this would be one of the leading contenders for that honor. For information purposes, the great 2005 has been drinking marvelously for years now – elegance personified.

The 2022 vintage is a special year in Burgundy, ranking right up there for greatness alongside the esteemed 2019, 2015 and 2005’s. The 2022 Beaune 1er Cru Les Grèves Vigne de l’Enfant Jesus is lovely, wafting from the glass with aromas of blackberries, spices, violets and rose petals. Medium to full-bodied, broad and enveloping, with a fleshy attack that segues into a refined, mineral palate and a saline finish – it showcases Pinot Noir at its best. Some (30%) whole-bunch adds some floral perfume to the warm, spicy fruit. Notes of liquorice and graphite combine to give a warm, rounded feel. Drink 2026-2030.

2022 Bouchard Pere et Fils Beaune Greves Vigne de l’Enfant Jésus Premier Cru (Beaune, Burgundy, France) – $374.99.

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Author: Dirk Chan

Our online feature this week is the 2017 Quinta do Vale D. Maria Vinhas do Sabor (Douro Valley, Portugal) – $21.49, regularly $26.99.

Located in the heart of the Douro region, in Cima Corgo in the Vale do Rio Torto, the first records of Quinta Vale D. Maria date back to 1868 where the grapes were used specifically to make Port. The history of Quinta Vale D. Maria winemaking begins in 1996 when purchased by Cristiano van Zeller from the family of his wife, Joana Lemos van Zeller.

Since then, and as a result of a lot of dedication and passion, Quinta Vale D. Maria has produced a lot of unique and terroir driven wines with sustainable practices, whose quality is recognized nationally and internationally.

Our feature this week, their Vinhas do Sabor Superiore red is a blend of Alicante Bouschet, Baga, Tinta Roriz, Touriga Franca and Touriga Nacional aged in used French oak barrels for 9 months. Aromas of black fruits with subtle floral and smoky notes. Harmonious flavours flow through the palate of black cherries and plums, with elegant tannins adding complexity to a wine which is drinking very well now. Pair with aged cheeses, paella or vegetable dishes.

Quinta do Vale D. Maria Vinhas do Sabor (Douro Valley, Portugal) – $21.49, regularly – $26.99.

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b>Author: Dirk Chan

Our online feature this week is the Cune Viña Real Crianza (Rioja, Spain) – $21.49, regularly $25.99.

Viña Real is CVNE’s Rioja Alavesa-based winery, releasing its first vintage in 1920. The Viña Real style is one that showcases the forward fruit of Alavesa while simultaneously possessing the structure to age. The original fruit source was in the Elciego area, in the heart of the Rioja Alavesa region. The vineyards are located adjacent and clustered around the old Camino Rea (“Royal Road”), from which the wine takes its name.

Nowadays, the grapes are principally sourced from sunny south-facing slopes which run from the Sierra de Cantabria mountain range down to the Ebro River. As is also the case with the Cune line, the Viña Real wines are produced from over 50% estate fruit, an unusually high percentage for Rioja.

A new facility for Viña Real was completed in 2004 – it is situated on top of the hill known as Cerro de la Mesa and commands sweeping views of both the Alavesa vineyards and the town of Logroño (where we stayed during our last trip here), Rioja’s commercial center. If the Cune bodega represents CVNE’s commitment to the old and the traditional, the Viña Real bodega demonstrates their forward-thinking philosophy and their embrace of modern technology.

This week’s Crianza is a modern style Rioja, it is medium-full bodied red sourced from sunny, south-facing slopes in Rioja Alavesa. Look for aromas of cherries, raspberries, vanilla and mineral hints. Its medium bodied solid juicy blue and red fruits has a clovey edge finishing with zingy acidity. A half hour decant would be good and pair with a well-spiced chickpea stew.

Cune Viña Real Crianza (Rioja, Spain) – $21.49 (regularly $25.99)

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Author: Dirk Chan

Our online feature this week is the Ramos Pinto Duas Quintas Branco (Douro Valley, Portugal) – $22.49 regularly $27.99.

Ramos Pinto was established in 1880 by Adriano Ramos Pinto. It quickly became one of the most important wineries in Porto and at that time, accounted for half the wine exported to South America from the region. The estate became part of the Louis Roederer Family in 1990.

Ramos Pinto has four estates in the Douro Valley: Quinta do Bom Retiro and Quinta da Urtiga, located in Cima Corgo, as well as Quinta dos Bons Ares and Quinta de Ervamoira, in the Douro Superior. These four Quintas cover an area of 890 acres.

Our weekly offer this week is their Duas Quintas Branco – The Duas Quintas name is synonymous with a blend of highland and lowland soils, maturity and freshness, schist and granite. The Duas Quintas white is made from a selection of indigenous grape varieties (52% Rabigato, 30% Viosinho and 10% Arinto, 8% Códega) with personality, high natural acidity and remarkable aromatic complexity, a wine with structure to be enjoyed while young or age short-term. About 90% of the wine fermented in stainless steel vats and the remaining 10% in French and Austrian oak casks so it has enough vanilla to match with shellfish, octopus or an oily fish. Also goat cheese!!

Ramos Pinto Duas Quintas Branco (Douro Valley, Portugal) – $22.49 regularly $27.99.

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Author: Dirk Chan

Summer is in full swing, its time to break out the lighter reds – the wines below are both idiomatic and varietally correct and also food friendly and worthy of your consideration. Lovely for picnics or a quick summer supper pairing, chill some of these down for even more freshness. Won’t stand up to bbq’d sauced red meats, but lovely with grilled chicken or ham or pasta.

Pictured left to right:

2023 Agricola Gorgo Bardolino (Veneto, Italy) – $23.99

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Author: Dirk Chan

Our online feature this week is the Peter Lehmann The Barossan Cabernet Sauvignon (Barossa Valley, Australia) – $21.49 regularly $25.99.

Often referred to as the man who saved the Barossa Valley, Peter Lehmann’s reputation is legendary throughout the region and in Australian winemaking history.

The late 1970s were difficult times for the Barossa Valley wine grape growing community as there was a severe grape surplus where companies refused to buy grapes and honor existing contracts, and Peter Lehmann knew this would destroy the livelihoods of the family growers. In a courageous bid to support his community, Peter took out a loan, assembled equipment and built a small winery to process their grapes. True to his promise to them, when the money started coming in Peter made sure to pay his growers first.

Having gone through the tough times, not just to make great wine but to preserve the future of the land and the Barossa region, the growers gave him unrivalled access to the very best grapes thereafter.

Our weekly offer this week is their “The Barossan Cabernet Sauvignon” – deep crimson with garnet hues and a slight purple tinge. This complex, medium-full bodied Barossa Cabernet Sauvignon displays vibrant cassis with notes of black olive on the nose. The palate is lush and rich, with mulberry and blueberry fruit, savoury herbal and cigar-box flavours imparted from carefully selected French oak. The tannins are fine and ripe and the wine finishes with soft, fruit-dominated length. Pair with slow roasted meats or a grilled bbq steak.

Peter Lehmann The Barossan Cabernet Sauvignon (Barossa Valley, Australia) – $21.49, regularly $25.99.

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Author: Dirk Chan

Our online feature this week is the Château des Tourtes Blanc (Bordeaux – Cotes de Bordeaux Blaye, France) – $19.99 , regularly $25.49.

The Raguenot family took over the Château des Tourtes estate (covering 64 hectares), located in the Blaye-Côtes de Bordeaux appellation (just across the Gironde from the Médoc.) in 1997. They have a strong international reputation and a diverse range of award-winning wines having won more than 100 medals in the subsequent 28 years. Quality, diversity and terroir expression are foremost in their wine philosophy.

Our feature this week is their Bordeaux Blanc, made from a classic white Bordeaux blend of 80% Sauvignon Blanc and 20% Semillon showcasing a bouquet of fresh citrus fruits and acacia flower blossoms followed by a revitalizing palate of passionfruit and grapefruit, marked by beautiful minerality, showcasing a cooler climate taste profile. Drinking well now!

Perfect to accompany seafood, white meats, or as an aperitif. This wine is the ideal ally for your festive meals or moments of relaxation. Prost!

Château des Tourtes Blanc (Bordeaux – Cotes de Bordeaux Blaye, France) – $19.99, regularly $25.49

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Author: Dirk Chan

Our online feature this week is the Talamonti Moda Montepulciano d’Abruzzo (Abruzzi, Italy) – $17.49, regularly $21.99.

The Talamonti vineyard/estate was started in 2001 (before that it was part of a collective) comprising 32 hectares dedicated to the production of classic Abruzzo grapes – Trebbiano d’Abruzzo, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo & Pecorino, as well as some Merlot for blending.
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Talamonti specializes in crafting wines that celebrate the rich winemaking heritage of Loreto Aprutino and the Abruzzi region. Talamonti’s vineyards are 300m above sea level, and benefit from a favourable south-easterly exposure, and from the micro-climate and terrior that typifies the area along the Tavo Valley, making it one of the most popular areas in Abruzzo for making wine. Talamonti is one of the favorite producers in Abruzzo in terms of value and price. The style of winemaking is very consistent and readily offers great bang for your buck.

Our feature this week is their Moda Montepulciano d’Abruzzo – Intense ruby-red color with violet undertones is followed by a fragrant bouquet of ripe red fruits. Lively, elegantly framed by oak spices and chocolate. Chill this for 10-15 minutes and pair with hearty, savory dishes, such as beef brisket, hamburgers, beef bolognese, tagliatelle, ragu, and high-protein pizzas. The adventurous can try it with grilled meats.

Prost!

Talamonti Moda Montepulciano d’Abruzzo (Abruzzi, Italy) – $17.49, regularly $21.99.)

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Author: Dirk Chan

Our online feature this week is the Undurraga Sibaris Reserva Pinot Noir (Maipo Valley, Chile) – $18.49 , regularly $22.49.

Vina Undurraga is one of the largest and oldest wineries in all of Chile, possessing an impressive portfolio of wines from four different ranges. Founded in 1885 by Francisco Undurraga, the winery has a beautiful historic garden outside with large and impressive trees that were planted over a hundred years ago. The winery itself is quite modern, keeping up with the high demand for their still wines and sparkling wines which are popular in Chile and exported all around the world.

Our feature this week is their Sibaris Pinot Noir Reserva, made with selected Pinot Noir grapes grown in their Maipo Valley vineyards. After being carefully aged in oak casks, it was then bottled and stored in their cellars until it reached maturity. It has a classic ruby colour with an aroma enhanced by red berry fruit notes. On the palate, there is a touch of mushroom, forest floor and sour cherries that are balanced by some pomegranate, star anise, vanilla and five spice notes all leading to a smooth, silky texture. This Pinot Noir is ideal with turkey dinner, duck and mild cheeses. One of the few Pinot Noirs that has been in the store for more than a decade!

Undurraga Sibaris Reserva Pinot Noir (Maipo Valley, Chile) – $18.49, regularly $22.49

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Author: Dirk Chan

The wine regions of Eastern Europe offer a captivating journey through history, culture, and exceptional winemaking. While countries like Romania, Slovakia, Hungary, Slovenia, and Bulgaria may not be the first to come to mind when thinking of European wine, they are now producing a remarkable array of high-quality wines that are gaining recognition on the international stage. These nations, once at the heart of the Eastern Bloc, have a winemaking history dating back thousands of years.

The region’s winemaking traditions have been shaped by a blend of influences, including ancient Roman viticulture, medieval monastic practices, and modern winemaking techniques, resulting in a fascinating tapestry of wine styles, not to mention indigenous grape varietals not seen elsewhere in the world.

If and when you feel adventurous, give these wines a try!

Pictured from left to right:

2022 Jidvei Clasic Feteasca Regala (Romania) – $23.49
2021 Edoardo Miroglio Soli Pinot Noir (Thracian Valley, Bulgaria) – $22.99
2022 Heimann & Fiai SXRD Red (Szekszard, Hungary) – $25.49
2019 Strekov Frankovka (Slovakia) – $56.99
2020 Vinaria Purcari Freedom Blend Tribute Edition (Moldova) – $38.99

Other wines from Eastern Europe worthy of your consideration:

2023 Grand Tokaj Classic Selection Tokaji Furmint (Tokaj, Hungary) – $16.99
NV Chevalier de Dyonis Pinot Noir (Romania) – $16.99
NV Marani Alazani Valley Red (Georgia) – $19.99
2022 Tbilvino Saperavi Dry Red (Georgia) – $25.99
2019 Zsirai Winery Gavaller Red Blend (Villany, Hungary) – $25.99
2016 Royal Tokaji 5 Puttonyos Aszu (Hungary) -250mL – $36.49

Prost!

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