deVine Thoughts

Author: Dirk Chan

The vineyards for our feature wine is 30 years old vines, grown under organic practices. The winemaking presses the grapes gently before the cold maceration, and fermented in stainless steel tanks. 70% of the wine was aged in stainless steel tanks, then the rest spent two months on Viognier lees in oak barrels.

Offering an enticing nose of white peaches, crushed rocks, spice and brioche emerging from this medium to full-bodied Chardonnay that has depth, layered texture and length. Try with some scampi.

2020 Domaine Lafage Novellum Chardonnay (Cotes Catalanes, France) – $19.99, regularly $24.49

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Author: Dirk Chan

For a change, the 2021 Bordeaux Futures Campaign is going to feature the Whites and the sweet dessert wines of Sauternes and Barsac. Its not often the whites get top billing but after a trio of great vintages for the reds in 2018, 2019 and 2020, the 2021’s was a trying vintage which has produced old-fashioned reds on the lighter (yet elegant) side with alcohol level’s in the 12-12.5% range instead of 14+ range. We will focus on some quality Petit Chateaux, Cru Bourgeois and a few well-priced Classified Growths for short-term cellaring and early drinking while the great vintages sit in your cellar.

How does Futures work you ask – well at its most basic level, you’re purchasing unfinished wine – you pay for it in full now, and in two years time. The wines when released in-bottle will be 10-15% higher so you get a price break.

2021 was ravaged by mildew, a less than satisfactory growing season, cruel frost in April (meaning volumes were well down pretty much across the board) and selection had to be severe. The reds in 2021 is far different than those made in 2018, 2019 and 2020, when alcohols as high as 15% were commonplace. The 2021 reds are in the 12 to 13% alcohol range, made in an old-fashion way that reminds of 1985 or 1988, a balanced not over the top style from a bygone era. Plenty of acidic freshness in the aromatic reds but they will drink nicely relatively early in a medium-bodied style than the bigger style we’ve become used to in the last decade. No clear winner on left or right bank, variability is high and depends on the Chateau. This is a vintage to buy and enjoy early while the great vintages age in your cellars.

Alas, the real revelation in 2021 is an absolutely brilliant vintage for white bordeaux, both dry or sweet where high acid is a good thing! The dry whites, all picked before late September’s heavy rain, are both aromatic and full of fruit and zesty freshness without the flab of riper years.

And the sweet wines are truly great, despite extremely small quantities and in some cases a miniscule percentage of a normal harvest. Climens, one of our favourites made ‘not an ounce’ of sweet wine, and Suduiraut had both spring frost and summer hail. Those that were spared made very fine dessert wines and we’ll certainly attempt to get our hands on what small quantities that are available.

As usual, items offered will be sold on a first-come first served basis and in some cases maximums applied. In many cases we won’t be able to go back for more of something once it sells out and if we do, price will be second tranche (release) pricing.

Here is the first offerings

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Author: Dirk Chan

Our special this week is the Château Moulin de L’Abbaye Cru Bourgeois (Medoc, France) – $25.99 (regularly $30.99)

Moulin de L’Abbaye (mill of the abbey) is made of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot and 1% Malbec from 27 year old vines grown on clay-limestone soils. This has some age on it and is in its prime wheelhouse.

The vineyard is of 2 ha purchased in 1984 has been worked traditionally by a family of cooperative members for 30 years now and their hard work was rewarded with a Cru Bourgeois classification recognition in 2003.

Developed nose of wood smoke, red fruits and a touch of cassis, smooth resolved tannins in a medium, medium-full mouthfeel. Not often you find a Petit Chateaux Left Bank that’s CabSau dominant so take advantage of it. This is delicious now, pair with grilled lamb chops on the barbecue!

Château Moulin de L’Abbaye Cru Bourgeois (Medoc, France) – $25.99, regularly $30.99

Return to devinewines.ca

Author: Dirk Chan

For a change, the 2021 Bordeaux Futures Campaign is going to feature the Whites and the sweet dessert wines of Sauternes and Barsac. Its not often the whites get top billing but after a trio of great vintages for the reds in 2018, 2019 and 2020, the 2021’s was a trying vintage which has produced old-fashioned reds on the lighter (yet elegant) side with alcohol level’s in the 12-12.5% range instead of 14+ range. We will focus on some quality Petit Chateaux, Cru Bourgeois and a few Classified Growths for short-term cellaring and early drinking while the great vintages sit in your cellar.

How does Futures work you ask – well at its most basic level, you’re purchasing unfinished wine – you pay for it in full now, and in two years time. The wines when released in-bottle will be 10-15% higher so you get a price break.

2021 was ravaged by mildew, a less than satisfactory growing season, cruel frost in April (meaning volumes were well down pretty much across the board) and selection had to be severe. The reds in 2021 is far different than those made in 2018, 2019 and 2020, when alcohols as high as 15% were commonplace. The 2021 reds are in the 12 to 13% alcohol range, made in an old-fashion way that reminds of 1985 or 1988, a balanced not over the top style from a bygone era. Plenty of acidic freshness in the aromatic reds but they will drink nicely relatively early in a medium-bodied style than the bigger style we’ve become used to in the last decade. No clear winner on left or right bank, variability is high and depends on the Chateau. This is a vintage to buy and enjoy early while the great vintages age in your cellars.

Alas, the real revelation in 2021 is an absolutely brilliant vintage for white bordeaux, both dry or sweet where high acid is a good thing! The dry whites, all picked before late September’s heavy rain, are both aromatic and full of fruit and zesty freshness without the flab of riper years.

And the sweet wines are truly great, despite extremely small quantities and in some cases a miniscule percentage of a normal harvest. Climens, one of our favourites made ‘not an ounce’ of sweet wine, and Suduiraut had both spring frost and summer hail. Those that were spared made very fine dessert wines and we’ll certainly attempt to get our hands on what small quantities that are available.

The early pricing appears to on par with 2020, which is no bargain, alas the Whites and Sauternes may cost more because the Bordelais know they have something great there (the cost of Euro savings offset by skyrocketing shipping charges). We’ll focus on early and elegant drinkers from Petit Chateaux, Cru Bourgeois and lesser Grand Cru Classe for reds this year. For those of you continuing verticals of high end wines and wanting a specific chateaux, please drop us a line asap so we can keep an eye out for you. We will certainly not be purchasing vast amounts of reds like we did for 2018, 2019 and 2020, perhaps only 20-25% of Grand Cru Classés of what we normally buy for reds giving the early pricing scheme.

As usual, items offered will be sold on a first-come first served basis and in some cases maximums applied. For the whites and sweet wines, In many cases we won’t be able to go back for more of something once it sells out and if we do, price will be second tranche (release) pricing.

If you’ve subscribed to Futures last year, you will be automatically enrolled for this year’s Campaign. For those new to the game, please subscribe to the 2020 Bordeaux Futures Offerings using this link –
https://secure.campaigner.com/CSB/Public/Form.aspx?fid=1880392&ac=cdw8

Subscribing is a two step process, you will have join by filling out above form, then click the link sent to your email address. This ensures you get the offers as soon as we release them. Any unsold product will go on the main website 2-3 days after the offerings. As usual, we’ll be updating each product with running counts of what’s left for sale as best we can. Subscribers can expect the first offering early next week with new offering on a weekly basis thereafter. The campaign will end by mid June.

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Author: Dirk Chan

Our special this week is the Marques de Caceres Reserva (Rioja, Spain) – $29.99 (regularly $36.99)

Founded in 1970 by Enrique Forner in Cenicero, in the heart of La Rioja Alta, Marqués de Cáceres wines are among the most widely distributed Spanish brand in the world exporting to over 120 countries. Forner’s wine-making family had fled to France during the Spanish Civil War. The first wines were released in 1975.

This Tempranillo and Garnacha blend made from parcels from 25-35 year-old vineyards on clay and limestone soil has produced a dense bouquet of toasted aromas, red and black berries, sour cherries, earth, leather, and plums with a rich, layered body of spicy herbs, currant, black fruits and campfire elements with integrated smooth tannins and fresh acidity.

Fine accompaniment to roasted or stewed meats as well as game and strong cheeses.

Marques de Caceres Reserva (Rioja, Spain)- $29.99, regularly $36.99

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Author: Dirk Chan

Our special this week is the Edmeades Zinfandel (California – Mendocino, United States) – $21.49 (regularly $26.99)

Edmeades makes bold wines from the rugged coastal vineyards in Mendocino County’s rugged coastal mountains. Their Zinfandels are intense with distinctive character and personality. They work side by side with a small group of growers, who year after year produce some of Mendocino County’s most highly-prized grapes. They prefer a delicate touch in the cellar, allowing each vineyard to be fully expressed in the wines that they make.

This Zinfandel begins with concentrated aromas of baking spices including; cinnamon and cloves. Those spices give way to aromas of blackberries, black currants, and dried sage. The texture is round, and the fruit expression is focused and lush. Subtle and integrated tannins accentuate the richness of the wine, while pleasant acidity keeps it fresh on the finish. Try with anything barbecue.

Edmeades Zinfandel (California – Mendocino, United States) – $21.49, regularly $26.99

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Author: Dirk Chan