deVine Thoughts

Author: Dirk Chan

With the help of our friend Roy Hersh from For the Love of Port, we have ordered through Flying Wines some very rare and collectible Tawny and Vintage Ports from the house Quinta do Mourão.

Most of you have not heard of this house before, the Braga Family has owned this estate since 1972, but its history dates back to the 16th century. Located just down the river and around the bend from Peso da Regua in the heart of the Douro’s Baixo Corgo. Owner/winemaker Miguel Braga runs the show having taken over from his father Mario who originally purchased this property. They previously sold their fruit to the big houses, and in 1999 decided to market their own.

Roy has been pursuing this house for many years, and it is quite a coup for us to have the Mourão ports in Edmonton. This producer seems to fly under the radar, but makes some of the finest wood-aged Ports in the entire Douro region and the proof is in the pudding once you’ve tasted these.

The family owns four other Quintas, and the story behind the Sao Leonardo label on their wines refers to a viewpoint in the valley that stood in between two such Quintas. At the time of purchase, these were managed by the respective sons who would meet at this half way point between them, thus for tradition’s sake, the label on the wines became S. Leonardo.

We’ve got for your consideration their 10, and their superb 40 and 60 Year Old Tawny Ports, as well as their Vintage Ports from 2000, 2007, and 2009. Please note quantities for all are extremely limited.

A few words must be said about the extra rare and quite extraordinary 60 Year Old Tawny, if such as thing were to exists – there is no official designation in Portugal for a 60 Year Old, so the label is technically 40, but with a tiny booklet and sticker of ’60’ attached to the bottle. Miguel’s blend is 80% from the 1948 and 20% from his phenomenal “mother wine” from 1972.

Having tasted this at a recent gathering (where there was complete silence for a couple of minutes with attendees mesmorized and searching for accolades), this writer must rank it amongst the top three tawnies I’ve ever tasted, completely in line with the 1855 Taylor Scion that costs ten times as much as this. The palate is so long and persistent, it defies description, i half expected tears from someone in the room! Given the quality, the $460 price tag is a massive giveaway. Needless to say if you want something truly memorable, get this while we still have a couple of bottles for sale!

Here are the links to the available Mourão ports:

2000 Quinta do Mourao Sao Leonardo Vintage Port – $84.99

2007 Quinta do Moursao Sao Leonardo Vintage Port – $89.99

2007 Quinta do Moursao Sao Leonardo Vintage Port – $89.99

NV Quinta do Mourao Sao Leonardo 10 Year Old Tawny Port – $48.99

NV Quinta do Mourao Sao Leonardo 40 Year Old Tawny Port – $192.99

NV Quinta do Mourao Sao Leonardo 60 Year Old Tawny Port – $459.99

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Author: Jim Phelan

Join us on Saturday, January 9th at deVine Wines & Spirits while we explore one of the great grandfathers of craft beer: Belgium. The country’s rich brewing history dates back to the First Crusades in the 12th Century and has influenced the brewing culture of every nation across the globe. Belgian beer styles are also among the most diverse of any country, ranging from Trappist and Abbey beers, through a number of different sours, wits, saison, and even ‘Champagne’ beers finished “à la méthode originale.”

Belgian brews are taken seriously enough that many have a particular goblet to enjoy each style in, and are perfectly paired to certain styles of cuisine. A full six course meal can (and does) get paired with Belgian beer. In January, we’ll scratch the surface of this rich culture with a sit down, guided tasting.

Book your tickets to this event online here..

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Author: Dirk Chan

From all of us at deVine’s to you and yours, we wish you a very Happy New Year in 2016 with all the best for happiness, good health and prosperity.

May good fortune and luck follow you wherever you go and in all that you do for the coming year, 2016.

We thank you for your continued patronage!

Ed, Annabelle, Chad, Dirk, Mark, Chris, Bill, Kandice, Jim, Bob and Kaitlyn

Here are some New Years Wine recommendations for your consideration. Have a fun New Years, remember to drink responsibly:

Sparkling

NV Charles de Fère Jean Louis Blanc de Blancs Brut (Loire Valley, France) – $15.99

NV Bodegas Pinord Dibon Brut Cava (Penedès, Spain) – $16.99

NV Château Ste. Michelle Brut (Washington – Columbia Valley, United States) – $18.99

2006 Wachtenburg Spatburgunder Sekt (Rheinpfalz, Germany) – $21.99

2013 Val d’Oca Extra Dry Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Uvaggio Storico (Veneto, Italy) – $23.99

2013 Julius Klein Gelber Muskateller Frizzante (Austria); – $26.99

NV Rolet Crémant du Jura Brut Rosé (Jura, France) – $27.99

2014 Quinta do Soalheiro Espumante Bruto Alvarinho (Vinho Verde, Portugal) – $44.99

Champagne

NV Godmé Père et Fils Brut Réserve Premier Cru (Champagne, France) – $51.30

NV Le Brun Servenay Brut Sélection (Champagne, France) – $55.99

NV Jose Dhondt Blanc de Blancs Brut (Champagne, France) – $56.99

NV Champagne Philipponnat Royale Reserve (Champagne, France) – $61.99

NV Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin Mailbox Brut (Champagne, France) – $70.99

2002 Devaux D de Devaux La Cuvee (Champagne, France) – $102.99

2000 Devaux Millesime Brut Reserve 1.5L Magnum(Champagne, France) – $249.99

2009 Bollinger 007 Spectre Limited Edition (Champagne, France) – $279.99

2000 Krug Brut (Champagne, France) – $324.99

2005 Louis Roederer Cristal Brut (Champagne, France) – $349.99

2000 Moet & Chandon Dom Pérignon Rosé (Champagne, France) – – $379.99

NV Armand de Brignac Ace of Spades Blanc de Blancs (Champagne, France) – $449.99

2002 Moet & Chandon Dom Pérignon Brut 1.5L Magnum (Champagne, France) – $649.99

Here are our store hours leading up to the New Year:

Tuesday, Dec 29 – 10:00 am – 8:00 pm
Wednesday, Dec 30 – 10:00 am – 8:00 pm
Thursday, Dec 31 – 10:00 am – 6:00 pm
Friday, Jan 1 – Closed

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Author: Dirk Chan

From all of us at deVine’s to you and yours, we wish you a very Happy New Year in 2016 with all the best for happiness, good health and prosperity.

May good fortune and luck follow you wherever you go and in all that you do for the coming year, 2016.

We thank you for your continued patronage!

Ed, Annabelle, Chad, Dirk, Mark, Chris, Bill, Kandice, Jim, Bob and Kaitlyn

Here are our store hours leading up to the New Year:

Saturday, Dec 26 – Closed
Sunday, Dec 27 – noon – 6:00 pm
Monday, Dec 28 – 10:00 am – 8:00 pm
Tuesday, Dec 29 – 10:00 am – 8:00pm
Wednesday, Dec 30 – 10:00 am – 8:00 pm
Thursday, Dec 31 – 10:00 am – 6:00 pm
Friday, Jan 1 – Closed

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Author: Dirk Chan

As we quickly approach Christmas, time is at a premium. Here are several pre-packaged products for quick in and out shopping for your consideration:

Beer Advent Calendars

12 Days of Christmas Beer Sampler

deVine Wines Staff Picks Case

December Case of the Month

A Tasting at deVine’s

We also make gift baskets, give us your budget, a bit of notice and we can have everything ready for you in short order.

Remember too you can always shop online too!

Here are our extended store hours for the Christmas Season:

Saturday, Dec 19 – 10:00 am – 9:00 pm
Sunday, Dec 20 – noon – 6:00 pm
Monday, Dec 21 – 10:00 am – 9:00 pm
Tuesday, Dec 22 – 10:00 am – 9:00pm
Wednesday, Dec 23 – 10:00 am – 9:00 pm
Thursday, Dec 24 – 10:00 am – 5:00 pm
Friday, Dec 25 – Closed
Saturday, Dec 26 – Closed

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Author: Dirk Chan

Leaving Ribera del Duero, we then travelled east to the Rioja wine region. There are very few wineries in Spain… in the world for that matter, whose name conjures up the heritage, prestige and adherence to old world winemaking quite like R. López de Heredia. Little about this winery has changed in the 138 years since it’s founding by Don Rafael López de Heredia founded it in 1877. The family adheres to a winemaking doctrine blueprinted in the 1880’s – to make wine only from their own vineyards.

Located in the historic town of Haro, Heredia was the first to establish their winery next to the train station (for easy access to transporting their wines abroad). This area is known as ‘Station District’, there are seven famous wineries that make up this Golden Mile of Rioja – made up of Roda, Muga, Cune, La Rioja Alta, Gomez Cruzado, Bilbainas and Heredia.

Haro is a must visit for wine lovers (there’s not much else to do if you don’t like wine). Getting here from the north is a two hour train ride from Bilbao, from the south it is a 3.5 hour drive from Madrid, or accessible from the Ebro axis from the east via Logrono (53km) which is where we stayed on our trip.

Tondonia is the most famous vineyard in Rioja, having been acquired from the clergy in 1913, it is a beautiful vineyard over 247 acres at 1600 feet above sea level on the right bank of the Ebro with alluvial clay where all 4 red grapes (Tempranillo – the main grape, Mazuelo, Graciano and Garnarcha) are grown. A 1970 Tondonia Gran Reserva tasted on this trip was probably our wine of the trip, spectacular secondary characteristics with leaf, tea, gravel, wild mushrooms on the nose, stellar acidity (with no tannins), sage and savory elements on the balanced palate – extraordinary. Hard to believe but the current release of the Gran Reserva is their 1981 – that is how long they are prepared to wait to release their best. When it was released, it sold so quickly that the winery decided to put a hold on shipping until further notice the demand was so high. It is mind-boggling how much time and money are sitting in their cellars – these wines are stored until the winemakers feel it is peaking before they are released.

Besides Tondonia, the other single vineyards Bosconia, Cubillo and Zaconia all have their own special traits that speak to the soil and terroir, all beautifully expressive of the land. Only estate bottled fruit is used in their wines which are legendary and renowned for their ageability (and that includes the longaging white), beautiful traditionally made style with elegance and complexity in abundance.

While the cellars are ancient, there are modern elements as in the main entrance to the pavilion is a modern building in the shape of a decanter (see above) created by Dame Zaha Hadid, the famous Iraqi-British architect. Its unique onion peel layers is distinctly neofuturistic with different presentations and multiple perspective points giving different impressions.

Stepping into the cellars themselves is like stepping back in time to the 1880’s. There are barrels that are 140 years old still in use and then there is the cobwebby cellars. If they leak, they are repaired. Those who don’t like penicillin or webs or dampness better stay home, but alas this micro-climate takes decades to develop and gives the cellaring conditions that make these wines special. They also employ their own cooper to make barrels as required.

Thus a definite hilite of our entire trip to one of the leading wineries in all of Spain. You must all try these exceptional wines if you are at all interested in Rioja.

Here is a list of available Heredia wines at deVine’s:

2006 Lopez de Heredia Vina Cubillo Crianza – 375mL – $24.99

2006 Lopez de Heredia Vina Cubillo Crianza – $36.99

2004 & 2005 Lopez de Heredia Rioja Blanco Vina Gravonia Crianza – $39.99

2004 Lopez de Heredia Vina Bosconia Reserva – $47.99

2002 Lopez de Heredia Vina Tondonia Reserva – $54.99

2003 Lopez de Heredia Vina Bosconia Reserva – $54.99

2001 Lopez de Heredia Vina Tondonia Reserva Magnum – $149.99

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Author: Jim Phelan

Liquor taxes have been in the news recently, with the freshman Alberta NDP government introducing a new set of AGLC (Alberta Gaming and Liquor Commission) mark-up rates on October 27th. To understand what that means for you, the consumer, we’d like to explain where these changes have come from and what has changed.

Alberta’s past couple years contained some dramatic political changes – ousting a conservative Premier in March of 2014 before the “Orange Crush” booted Alberta Conservatives out of office and brought Rachel Notley’s NDP into power on May 5th, 2015. During this time, many governance issues experienced some flip-flopping – including liquor mark-ups. The previous government introduced changes to the system in March – and new NDP government just released changes again with the new budget.

Overall, the changes are nothing too drastic and mostly affect the beer market. It’s worth keeping in mind that Alberta’s rates are reflected in real dollars per litre rather than a percentage and as such they need to be re-adjusted regularly. This year was a bit irregular because there were two incremental ‘inflationary’ increases within a year’s timeframe. On the face of things the most drastic changes are to the small brewer markup, which now only applies to brewers from Alberta, British Columbia, and Saskatchewan. Yet this protectionist system is not unprecedented – it is in fact a reversion back to the system in place prior to March of this year. Under the pre-March system, the low rates only applied to brewers within Alberta.

The biggest actual changes apply to smaller craft brewers from outside those three provinces. Before March of this year the mark-up for an American micro-brewery producing less than 20,000 hectoliters annually paid $0.98 per litre. At the same production rate the same brewery would have switched down to $0.20 per litre between March and October. As of the new budget, the current rate jumps to $1.25 per litre, a change which consumers will notice affect prices on the shelf.

Low ABV (alcohol per volume). High production beers experienced the least change – moving from $1.20 to $1.25 per litre. High ABV markups jumped about 20 cents per litre in each category, and ciders did the same, going from $1.57 to $1.81 for lower ABV and from $4.27 to $4.51 for higher ABV.

All in all, the changes give a significant advantage to local products, particularly those from BC and Saskatchewan, as Alberta producers were always taxed favourably, while imported and eastern Canadian craft products experience the most jumps. High ABV beer and all ciders are experiencing a more modest change.

Nevertheless, craft lovers, the revolution marches along!

Hope to see you all soon,

Your friends at deVine’s

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Author: Dirk Chan

We’ve arrived in Castilla y León in the Ribera del Duero wine region, and what a thrill it was for us to visit the famed Bodegas Vega-Sicilia. The huge estate is by a highway east of Valladolid. Tight security greeted us in the parking lot before Export Sales Manager Monica Bermejo came out to greet us. They only do trade visits and is not open to the public.

Founded in 1864, the current owners, the Alvarez family (members of the Primum Familiae Vini, a global (and very restricted) association of some of the world’s top winemaking families) purchased the estate in 1982. Their flagship “Unico” is the first growth of Spanish wines with an illustrious history and is considered one of the greatest wines in the world. The word Vega refers to the green vegetation that grows along the riverbank of the Duero River while Sicilia refers to Saint Cecilia, the patron saints of musicians, after whom several villages in Castile and León is named after.

We visited the cellars and these are the grandest, state of the art and cleanest facilities this writer has seen. The stainless steel tanks look brand new, they are so polished. You can eat off the floors. There is a full time cooper with support staff for constructing their barrels to exacting standards. There are no spills or leaks on any of their barrels! The solid concrete doors are 3 inches thick.

Many of Vega-Sicilia’s 250 acres are planted with old vines, some more than 100 years old, and thus usually produce a very low yield during harvest. In fact, many of the plantings that go into the flagship Unico wines are often harvested at less than one ton per acre and the vines are only replanted once they die. In the middle of the grounds, there is a gorgeous Japanese garden.

The Unico Gran Reserva is the signature wine of Vega-Sicilia that is usually released at least 10 years after vintage though some bottlings may not be released for up to 15 years or even longer. Taken from some of the oldest vines in the Ribera del Duero, the wine is mostly Tempranillo (approximately 80% but depending on vintage) and Cabernet Sauvignon (approximately 20%). In an average vintage, Unico will account for a little less than a third of Vega Sicilia’s production. This wines ages effortlessly and decades of patience is required even after you’re lucky enough to acquire a bottle or two (only around 7000 cases production for the world) – there is a reason why it is called the Latour of Spain. We tasted a 1991 Unico at a restaurant and it was a baby that needed another 15 years. Rumors has it there’s a 5000 person waiting list for allotment, and those that currently have allocations will certainly not let it go. In poor vintages, the winery will not produce any Unico (as in 1992, 1993, 1997, 2001).

Vega-Sicilia has founded its success on its meticulous wine-producing practices with no compromises and this visit shows that. In the vineyard it applies low yields, aided by green harvesting, and a painstaking grape selection. In the winery, wines undertake Unico sees a complicated and expensive series of rackings from huge barrels to new oak, to used American oak, back to new oak again, and on it goes. Despite the long barrel ageing, the wines are never dried out or overly oaky even when tasted years on, which is compelling evidence of the superb quality of its raw materials.

There is Especial Reserva, a limited release blend of various Unico vintages, and the second wine Valbuena, both of which we see very little of in Alberta.

The nearby Bodegas Alion estate is the innovative addition to Vega-Sicilia’s portfolio. It produces a high quality wine for drinking young. Vega-Sicilia also owns the Hungarian Tokay estate Oremus (we tasted the Oremus Dry Furmint Mandolas and it was extremely good) that produces the sweet Tokajis, as well the Toro based Bodegas Pintia (great value for money) that is excellent. Recently, a joint venture with Benjamin de Rothschild family in Rioja has come on line in a new winery called Macan that we look forward to tasting.

Available Vega-Sicilia products at deVines:

2010 Vega-Sicilia Pintia – $79.99

2011 Vega-Sicilia Alion – $109.99

2007 Vega-Sicilia Unico Gran Reserva – $549.99

2004 Vega-Sicilia Unico Gran Reserva – $549.99

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Author: Dirk Chan

Continuing our visits of Douro properties, we moved onto one of the store’s best selling producers,
the family owned Quinta do Portal, located in the heart of the Douro Valley.

Quinta do Portal was established only in 1994, but this property has been in the Douro for much longer before that (first references date back to 1477). The family Mansilha Branco was instrumental in the original demarcation of the region in the mid 1750’s. Today, owner Pedro Mansilha Branco runs the estate.

More than one hundred hectares are under vine, and the fruit is sourced from five high altitude ancient vineyards or quintas: Quinta da Abelheira, Quinta do Confradeiro, Quinta dos Muros (over a century old and escaped the Phylloxera carnage), Quinta do Portal and Quinta das Manuelas.

50% of the grapes of the production of the Quinta do Portal wines come from the company vineyards, the other half is purchased from growers in the Pinhao and Torto Valleys. Most of the vineyards lie at high altitudes for the Douro, so escaping the incessant summer heat, at least by night, and producing grapes that make their wines both fresh and elegant.

So in just a couple of decades, this estate has done incredible work fast-tracking them to success with world wide recognition for their ports and red wines. Our technical wine tasting consisted of:

Fine Tawny and Ruby Port (nice every day-er’s), Six Barrels Tawny Reserve (delicatedly balanced with fine length), Six Grapes Ruby (vibrant and not too sweet), 2009 Late Bottled Vintage (very nice indeed), 2012 Douro Colheita (very close to the Wine Spectator Top 100 2011), 2011 Reserva (very fine and very much looking forward to its arrival in the store), 2009 Grande Reserva (pretty darn good from a difficult vintage). Later at dinner, we tasted their two top reds – the 2009 Auru, world class red consisting of the best Touriga Nacional and Tinta Roriz grapes (remarkably rich and well balanced), followed by the ultra-rare and limited non DOC 2012 Black Pur (made primarily of Tinta Roriz with some Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec) – jaw dropping and one of the wines of the year for me!

We stayed in their lovely hotel/guest house “Casa das Pipas” with stunning views and an lovely old world feel. The meals (dinner and lunch) were exquisite, we must praise Chef Milton Ferreira for Michelin quality dining. If you are ever in the Douro, you must stay here!

Winemaker Paulo Coutinho and owner Pedro Mansilha Branco has done a fine job raising the wines to a new level of quality with hard work and heavy monetary investment (a Siza Vieira designed warehouse) to upgrade the winery. We had a brief visit with Paulo who let us taste some Malbec and Touriga Nacional 2015 – this is a declared year in the making.

Available Portal wines at deVines:

Quinta do Portal Branco – $22.99

Quinta do Portal White Moscatel Galego – $29.99

2011 Quinta do Portal Malvis – $13.99

2012 Quinta do Portal Douro Colheita – $23.49

2010 Quinta do Portal Douro Reserva – $34.99

2009 Quinta do Portal Touriga Franca – $46.99

2007 Quinta do Portal Grande Reserva – $47.99

2009 Quinta do Portal Tinta Roriz – $49.99

2004 Quinta do Portal Reserva Moscatel – $34.99

1999 Quinta do Portal Vintage Port – $69.99

2011 Quinta do Portal Vintage Port – $69.99

Quinta do Portal 20 Year Old Tawny Port – $76.99

2003 Quinta do Portal Vintage Port – $76.99

1997 Quinta do Portal Vintage Port – $84.99

Quinta do Portal 30 Year Old Tawny Port – $104.99

Quinta do Portal 40 Year Old Tawny Port – $134.99

Before we left, we were treated with a boat ride on the Douro River (breathtaking way to see some of your favourite estates). Kudos to Tourism manager Manuel Januario – we were blown away with this visit, they treated us like kings and we are greatful for their time and hospitality.

Portal is fast becoming one of the giants of the Douro Valley for both Douro reds and Vintage Ports, and this visit confirms their continued ascendancy.

Pictured top to bottom:

1) In the cellars of Quinta do Portal
2) Technical tasting wines
3) A Chef Milton Ferreira salted cod creation
4) Tasting 2015’s with winemaker Paulo Coutinho
5) Boat ride on the Douro River

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Author: Dirk Chan

Today, we left Porto behind and proceeded to the Douro Valley to visit the vineyards. From Porto to Regua and then on to Pinhao. First, let me say this drive is breathtaking and one of the most dramatic drives anywhere, the winding twisty roads are steep and delightful for those seeking great views (not enough spots for turn offs and picture taking!) – the gardens, the terraced vineyards, beautiful old buildings, colorful walls and lots of trees (pine, oak and eucalptus) all stimulate the senses. The
car driver is stressed for any moment you can go over – there is no speeding here so give yourself plenty of time as patience will be required. It is a nightmare for anyone who suffers from car sickness – Gravol city. We remarked with laughing coincidence when the Beatles’ Long and Winding Road shuffled itself into play as we approached Fonseca’s Quinta do Panascal.

Some four km’s west of the town of Pinhao is where Fonseca’s Panascal produces some of the best ports in the region.
Panascal takes its name from the cocksfoot grass that proliferates across the hillside. Its west and southwest facing site means the entire area is exposed to sunlight. Different slopes produces grapes of different character that give the Fonseca ports is complexity and unique character. Similarly, different grapes are planted in different areas – Tinta Roriz are on a ridge, Touriga Nacional on high slopes and Touriga Francesa in low lying areas. The 70+ hectare estate is Fonseca’sflagship estate.

Available Fonseca ports at deVines:

Fonseca Bin 27 Vintage Character Port – $23.99

Fonseca 20 Year Old Tawny Port – $72.99

2007 Fonseca Vintage Port – $139.99

2011 Fonseca Vintage Port – $139.99

2000 Fonseca Vintage Port – $199.99

1983 Fonseca Vintage Port – $269.99

1985 Fonseca Vintage Port – $369.99

Next up, we visited the spectacular Quinta do Roêda, the only estate of Croft, who was purchased by the Taylor Fladgate group back in 2001. Located in the Cima Corgo a short distance up river from Pinhão, its sizeable 100+ hectare property is in a prime sun-drenched location, but a lot of work
has had to take place since the purchase to renovate the rather run-down vineyards who for the longest time produced only average ports given its
prime and desired location. There are 75 year old vines on this 300 year old estate. Croft hit the headlines with its innovative Croft Pink rose style of
port back in 2005, and is rapidly building a new reputation for high quality Vintage Ports
as its 2011 VP and 2012 Quinta do Roeda clearly shows.

2008 Croft Late Bottled Vintage Port – $25.99

Croft Pink Port – $26.49

2011 Croft Vintage Port – $114.99

The Douro Valley is enchanting and speaks of terroir from the get go, it displays its old heritage, sings of the hard work required
to cultivate and produce the delightful port wines we’ve come to enjoy from here. If you have vertigo you won’t be picking grapes here! I have read about
the Douro region, but seeing is believing and certainly makes you appreciate the end product that much more.

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