deVine Thoughts

Author: Dirk Chan

With eager anticipation, we arrived at Chateau Lynch-Bages, one of the Bordeaux’s most recognizable names. This well respected 5th Growth in great years has done it again in 2010 – this is a superb wine (one of the wines of the vintage), and one to cellar for 20-25 years. Pitch black and oozing violets, yet there is a density of fruit that comes in waves. Another home-run from this estate (just wish it wasn’t so expensive, but then all the stunning Pauillac’s have risen 20-40% from 2009, outrageous but people are still buying) that ranks with their great 1982, 1989, 1990, 1996, 2000, 2009.

The Cazes have done extremely well in the Bages, with young Jean Charles taking the reigns from his retired father Jean-Michel and implementing new ideas. We visited the shops where the Cazes have built a series of quaint stores and cafe’s . At the winery, there is a museum (pictured above) that you can visit, where you can see the old archaic equipment that was last used in 1975 (pictured). The elder Cazes’ love for Oriental art is strewn all over the property (see picture on the next page).

The garden-feel tasting room is spacious with windows – we enjoyed the Echo of Lynch Bages 2010, and were even more impressed with the finest Lynch Bages Blanc I have ever tasted – judicious use of oak, citrus fruit, pineapple, grapefruit and star fruit – have to look into this one. I’ve been impressed with the white Bordeaux I’ve tasted on this trip.

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Author: Dirk Chan

An impromptu visit at the exquisitely managed estate of Pichon-Longueville Baron or Pichon Baron for short was the highlight of the day today. This has been one of my favourite Chateaux both to drink and to see – the draw-dropping looking chateau (pictured) is so grand in scale.

The 2010 Pichon Baron is without doubt one of the wines of the vintage and probably the best 2010 I tasted over the last week at VinExpo and various chateau visits (look out for a future blog on the VinExpo tasting of many 2010’s). Unfortunately, finding some Baron is going to be a difficult task as the whole world wants it, irrespective of the high price. Huge yet graceful, lithe yet light with a finish that goes on for minutes. This will easily compete with the First Growths – inky black, it has the guts and concentration to last for 50 years. The more provocative 2009 though will give interesting comparisons just as the 1989 and 1990 did – a racy, sexy wine that will be earlier drinking, but wow, so sumptuous.

Along with the great 2000, 2003, 2005, and now 2009 and 2010, Pichon Baron has had a hair-raising new millennium and on the big ascend under the ownership of French Insurance giant AXA and the guidance of first Jean-Michel Cazes (of Lynch Bages fame) and now Christian Seely (of Quinta do Noval, Suduiraut, Petit Village fame) since 2001.

Besides the two Grand Vins, we also tasted with senior tourism guide Nicolas Santier (pictured below) the 2010 Pibran – impressive and gaining in quality with each passing vintage. The 2nd wine Tourelles was less structured than the first wine, but it will still take a decade for it to come around.

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Author: Dirk Chan

A map of how the original Leoville estate that has separated into the three Leovilles as we know it today (Barton, Las Cases and Poyferre) is most intriguing. If one could be a fly on the wall when the division of the estate occurred would have been fun. The Poyferre holdings are spread wide and far in the St. Julien appellation (they say each plot gives extra dimension to the wine) but it must a be a lot of work for the vineyard staff and for consultant oenologist Michel Rolland to manage.

Proprietor Didier Cuvelier was not present but we tasted with his cousin Anne (pictured below), a very jolly and happy lady who welcomed us and told us that Didier’s work over the last 25 years at Poyferre has really seen the rise of the estate, no longer the last of the Leovilles. What a high tech tasting room we were escorted to, very clinical in its black and white. The spit bucket opens like a clothing drawer under the tasting table (pictured above), and there is a flush button per person to dismiss the spit. There is a dedicated wall with comments from famous wine personalities around the world.

Poyferre and Las Cases share one common vinification cellar, the left part of the cellar is Las Cases’ (windows painted white), the right part is Poyferre’s (painted vanilla yellow), the underground pumping system cris cross in an ‘X’ formation to the respective fermentation rooms across the street.

As for the tasting, I was very impressed with their estate called Le Crock, a tiny little known vineyard in St. Estephe that is surrounded by Cos d’Estournel on one side and Montrose on the right (how great is that?) – very impressive 2010 that I will have to try to hunt down, never seen it before. The 2010 Poyferre was refined, suave yet structured, not the biggest wine from the vintage, but balanced and a true vin de garde that reminds of a cross between 2003 and 2005 but with even more structure.

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Author: Dirk Chan

We had the pleasure of having dinner at the famous First Growth estate of Chateau Lafite-Rothschild in the commune of Pauillac. Lafite is the hottest First Growth on the market these days, with prices in the stratosphere due to the Asian demand – even their second and subsidiary wines are commanding huge prices. You can tell there’s money here, the grounds (pictured) are immaculately manicured, with everything in its right place. From the reception held on the largest grounds of any visit on this trip, we strolled around and admired the scenery while enjoying the first class appetizers before being led into the cellars for a long ten minute walk. The barrels are held in a gigantic circular shaped cellar that reminds of something from the Roman times with its antique look, huge height and ornate pillars.

The dinner reception was held in an highly decorated room with photographs of all the important people associated with Lafite past and present, including one of the Lafite representative sitting at our table, longtime General Manager Charles Chevalier (pictured below). A charming man who spoke very good English. Dinner for the 110 total guests was superb despite the heat (I sweated bullets in a suit), and the featured wines were exquisite, 1983 Lafite Rothschild (ever changing and so elegant and still young), and the dessert wine was a sublime and again young 1986 Chateau Rieussec (beaucoup de botrytis and exotic white fruits like peaches, nectarines and pineapple), both served from magnum.

Sandwiched at the head of the event, we also had the pleasure to taste the wines from the other estates of Lafite Rothschild – including the very nice Chateau d’Aussieres from Corbieres (a Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre and Carignan blend from Southern France), a superb Bodegas Caro (a collaboration between CAtena of Mendoza and ROthschild), and finally the Le Dix de Vina Los Vascos from the Colchagua Valley in Chile (in commemoration of 10 years of Lafite’s work in Chile).
This was another memorable night..

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Author: Dirk Chan

My first question to Cellarmaster Roland Bruno was the pronunciation of the Chateau Leoville Las Cases, whether the ‘s’ in ‘Las’ was pronounced or not, and the answer is yes (albeit improper French), but apparently as it is a proper name, they can pronounce it however they want, and in the south of France, they do pronounce the ‘s’. Thus a long time question answered.

There is a certain understated-ness about the three Leoville estates, none of the glamour of the First Growths, just vine growers going about their business – love the casualness given the quality of the wines. I very much liked St. Julien, reminds of heritage and history (although I did see the famous reverse osmosis machine). Everywhere we visited we were made welcome with open arms. One can arguably say St.Julien is the most consistent appellation in Bordeaux, with the highest percentage of Classified Growths properties of any region. What I liked is they all seem to get along and have nice things to say about their neighbours, which is nice to see.

We sampled quite a few wines from the 2010 Las Cases stable including a wide open and already drinking beautifully Fugue de Nenin, a better made yet more structured and reserved Nenin, the fine Potensac, a not new but rarely seen in Canada Lion de Las Cases (the official 2nd wine), the Clos du Marquis (separate vineyards) and the 2010 Las Cases itself (big, bold, but not as big as the Leoville Barton I tasted at VinExpo) – certainly the structure is there but I expected a non-forgiving monster and this surprised me with its approachability.

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Author: Dirk Chan

A highlight of the entire trip so far in Bordeaux (and there has been many) has been our visit to the St. Julien Fourth Growth estate of Chateau Branaire-Ducru. Proprietor Patrick Maroteauxand Manager Jean-Dominique Videau (pictured) gave us 2.5 full hours of their time to go through their vineyards, their cellars, and their estate philosophy – this kind of attention is a rarity when visiting Bordeaux chateaux and made me appreciate the Chateaux and its wines even more than I already did.

One can certainly see their ascendency over the last decade in the Grand Vin, and how their philosophy for finesse yet still be representative of what a St. Julien wine should be is reflected in their stellar 2010, 2008 (really superb for the vintage), 2003, 2001 of the Grand Vin, which we tasted. As well, the improvement in the 2010 Duluc, their second wine is also noticeable.

Patrick and wife Evelynare one of only three proprietors who actually live in their chateaux in all of Bordeaux. It was very nice of them to invite us into the chateaux for a ‘casual’ lunch of Pate de Canard Chaud, Poulet a l’estragon with truffle rice, Soupe de fruits rouges and Fromages affines, a quartet of cheeses from the cheese caves of world renown cheesemaker and affineur (ripener) Bernard Antony, who happened to be staying with the Maroteaux’s and he personally served us the cheese course. He was in Bordeaux to serve many a fine dinner for various famous Chateaux over VinExpo.

You may have read articles about Mr. Antony, whose cheeses are sought by aficionados the world over. He has serves many famous clientele including Queen Elizabeth II and presidents and dignataries alike. Apparently 80% of France’s 3 Michelin star restaurants are supplied by him! He apparently has two caves full of cheese at his cave/cellar in Vieux-Ferrette, near Altkirch in southern Alsace. Don’t ask me what the names of the cheeses served were (I only remember the Comte that was mind blowing), but my, they were all so complex with superior texture, depth and flavor, much like wine. What a thrill and honor to dine with a recipient of the Ordre National du Merite! I would have taken a picture, but I resisted, it would have been imprudent to take a picture at the dining table when being served by a legend.

One of my favourite and probably ever-lasting memories pertains to this Chateau (pictured below)..

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Author: Dirk Chan

What a way to start off the day but with a visit to the First Growth estate of Chateau Margaux in the appellation of Margaux.

There is certainly a noticeable amount of grandeur associated with the big estates, the grounds are bigger, the vineyards bigger, the reception area bigger, even the parking lots are all a cut above the rest. Pictured above is the chateau itself and one of its cellar. I guess we now know where our patronage has been spent. Formality must be adhered to here, traditions respected – jeans and cutoffs and tardiness are a big no-no. A jacket for the men a requirement, and yes, bring lots of business cards.

After a tour guided visit, we were privileged to be greeted by Paul Pontellier, Manager and winemaker of the renown estate for twenty years who tasted with us the 2010 Pavillon Rouge – very fine, not $100+ fine, but well made. The 2010 Chateau Margaux Grand Vin was closed in my book, but classy with cashmere tannins and a light footed yet full-bodied palette. Didn’t wow me I must say, completely impossible for me to evaluate at this young age – its not every day we get to taste a First Growth from barrel. I guess we’ll defer to the ‘time will tell’.

Mr. Pontellier said they are open to new technologies but will only move to changes as such only upon thorough and rigorous trial and evaluation – on things such as biodynamics, stelvin enclosures, individual plot fermentation etc.. The house is mired in tradition – they employ a full time cooper who builds 20% of their own barrels (cooperage area pictured below along with Mr. Pontellier).

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Author: Dirk Chan

We visited Chateau Angelus (btw, the ‘s’ is pronounced), a St. Emilion Grand Cru Classe B and met briefly with owner Herbert de Bouard de Laforest. One of the wine’s claim to fame was its appearance in the ‘007’ Casino Royale movie where Daniel Craig’s James Bond drinks the Angelus. The story was that current series producer Barbara Broccoli, the daughter of former longtime producer Albert R. Broccoli, said her father adored the wine, so she decided to add Angelus to the now famous train scene where Bond dines with Vesper Lynd, played by Eva Green – apparently Barbara requested 5 bottles of the 1982 to shoot that scene! claiming James Bond only drinks the very best – alas the 1990 wasn’t even good enough!

As an aside, it may be a one time appearance for Angelus, as the recently released new James Bond novel ‘Carte Blanche’ penned by American author Jeffery Deaver has 007 drinking a South African wine – the Warwick ‘Three Cape Ladies’.

Known as Chateau L’Angelus until 1990 when the L’ was dropped, this estate has a similar blend to the famous Cheval Blanc, roughly 50-50 CabFranc and Merlot (there is a tiny bit of CabSau planted). Note in the picture above of the vineyard with our tour guide and winery consultant Laurent Benoit that there is a naturally gentle slope of this one contiguous plot of vines that helps with drainage down to the CabFranc located at the bottom of the plot which needs the moisture.

Ran for seven generations by the Bouard de Laforest family, (Herbert’s father is 89 and lives in their neighbouring estate of Bellevue), the Angelus name refers to the three Angelus bells audible from the vineyards, coming from the chapel at Mazerat, the church in Saint-Martin de Mazeret and Saint-Émilion.

Amongst all this trivia, we managed to taste the 2007 Bellevue (very good and ready to drink), 2009 Bellevue (a much better bottling) and then the 2009 Angelus (exceptionally inky, voluptuously creamy). At VinExpo, the beautifully articulate blue and blackberry driven 2010 is a twenty year wine that will require more time than the 2009. The wine is expensive certainly, but worth it.

By the way, when renovations are done to the front of the estate next year, the bell (pictured below in the current

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Author: Dirk Chan

Our day started with a visit to one of Pomerol’s premier estates – Chateau La Conseillante, named after Catherine Conseillan, a metal dealer based in Libourne. Somewhere in the 18th century, she established a vineyard close to the border between Pomerol and St. Emilion. Indeed the famed Cheval Blanc is across the street. It has such illustrious neighbours as Petrus, Vieux Chateau Certan and L’Evangile. We visited with Jean-Michel Laporte, the Directeur of the estate, who thanked us for being on time for our appointment (the Bordelais like visitors to be on time!)

About 4000 cases of Conseillante are made each year from vines averaging 40 years of age and cropped very small to control the volume, around 4000 litres/hectare. Planted in 80% Merlot and 20% CabFranc in one contiguous block of vines, this is an elegant expression of Pomerol, never the boldest nor the lightest of wines, it is all about finesse and class. We were treated to the superb but tight 2005 and an already exquisite 2010 from barrel that will rival the superb 2009 (have we heard this before?). They had just started the green harvesting at the vineyard (pictured), and we saw bunches left lying on the vineyard. Jean-Michel confirmed earlier reports that the vintage 2011 is about 2-3 weeks ahead of schedule and picking will be one of the earliest in history. The price has crept up slowly but steadily over the years to catch up with the other superstar neighbours. For the Merlot lover, this is a must experience wine.

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Author: Dirk Chan

Chateau Fombrauge is owned by Bernard Magrez of Chateau Pape Clement fame since 1999 and this Saint-Emilion Grand Cru, and is one of the oldest chateau in the region (16th century). The beautiful old single floor chateau has 5 rooms for rent to travelers, is beautifully decorated in the old Victoria style. The stately tasting room is huge and immaculately styled with a couple of glassed enclosures holding antique time/watch pieces (pictured). We were greeted by Nicolas Contiero, the Marketing Director (an Italian in France!)

With 75 hectares in 3 plots, the vineyards are well exposed on a chalky slope at the south end of St. Emilion. The main wine is well priced and adored by Scandanavians (who were the previous owners before Magrez).

There is a small production garage wine, the Magrez-Fombrauge ultra-premium and there is the very good and inexpensive 2009 white St. Emilion (one of only three in the entire region) which we tasted that was lovely with great exotic tropical fruit and bright citrus acid (quite different from the mineral driven whites found in Pessac Leognan). We tasted the 2007 Fombrauge Rouge that was beautifully made and makes a case for drinking your 2007’s right now whereas the 2010 tasted from barrel was more structured and in a different quality plane – this is an excellent QPR wine.

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